熙琳古董珠宝腕表 传承极致经典的永恒 Eternal Grace of Antique Jewels

熙琳古董珠宝腕表 传承极致经典的永恒 Eternal Grace of Antique Jewels

艺术是一场对未知的探索,它赋予平凡世界更鲜活有趣的力量。歌德曾说,要想和世界联系,没有其他方法比艺术更好。也许生活和艺术之间没有明确的界限,每一次和艺术的相遇,都能让生活迸发出意想不到的火花。

Art is an exploration of the unknown and it enriches our lives with creative energy. Goethe once said, there is no better way to connect with the world than through art.  Each time we encounter art, there is always a new surprise waiting.

不论是包括萨尔瓦多.达利作品在内的先锋理念,亦或众多合作品牌对美的独到表现,侨福芳草地永远热衷对艺术与生活的探索,并乐于与每一位顾客分享。让艺术不再是高岭之花,而是绽放在某个不经意转弯的惊喜。

Be it the pioneering concepts behind Salvador Dali"s artworks or the unique expressions of art from various brand collaborations, Parkview Green FangCaoDi is always passionately exploring and providing fine Art and Lifestyle, while sharing it selflessly with all our guests. Here at Parkview Green FangCaoDi, art is no longer cold and remote, but blossoms at the most unexpected places.

与古董珠宝品牌熙琳的合作,就是侨福芳草地与旧日美好的一次邂逅。

The collaboration with Hier Paris H is a beautiful encounter right at Parkview Green FangCaoDi.

熙琳古董珠宝的品牌主理人卓佳娜从小接受艺术熏陶,在巴黎的留学生涯,让她与古董珠宝有了最初的相遇,出于这份对古典之美与旧时浪漫的热爱,卓佳娜创立了熙琳古董珠宝一份时光馈赠的礼物,她希望和更多人分享这些经过时间淬炼的世纪璀璨珍贵的宝物。

Zhuo jia-na of Hier Paris H was immersed in art since childhood. Life as a student in Paris brought her to her first encounters with antique jewelries. Her passion with antique arts and their romantic past drove her to found Hier Paris H - a gift of nostalgia. With this passion, she wants to share the aesthetics of the past with a wider audience.

情迷旧日时光

Spellbound By The Old Times

Boucheron/Chatelaine/Van Cleef & Arpels

古董珠宝的难得是跨越时空的,它或许曾经点缀了维多利亚时代某位淑女的鬓发,如今闪烁在年轻女孩儿的飘逸秀发间,也丝毫不减往日光辉;它或许曾经是某位贵族妇人袖口低调而优雅的流光,如今轻扣在女士修长干练的手腕,也毫不逊色于昔日的优雅。

The beauty of antique jewelry withstands the test of time. Perhaps they once adorned a certain lady during the Victorian era and now shine on the hair of a young girl. Regardless, they still stand out after all this time. Maybe they were once discreetly hidden under the sleeves of an aristocrat and are now displayed on the slender wrist of a woman with the same elegance.

“Hier”是法语中“昨日”的意思。卓佳娜将她对19世纪的一切幻想寄予其中。这些精美的饰品散发着永恒的魅力,把时光带回那个曾经浪漫辉煌的19世纪:名媛才子,衣香鬓影,天才辈出,流光溢彩。是大师和各个艺术派别如夏日星空般璀璨夺目的时代,还是人类历史上皇室和贵族广泛存在的最后一个年代。这个世纪,珠宝还没有成为市场中商业气息极浓的产品,它们的出现,是当时皇室权力和风范的极致象征。巧夺天工的技艺、倾尽所有的华美,工匠无所不用其极的展示着昔日时代里对未来艺术风格的无尽想象。

Meaning “yesterday” in French, the word Hier represents Zhuo jia-na’s imaginations about the 19th Century. These exquisite objects exert an immortal allure that brings us back to the flamboyant and romantic 19th Century, the golden era of socialites and intellects. Art masters and their artistic styles blossomed like the midsummer night sky. At that time, jewelries were not commercially available. Their existence was the symbol of power and royalty. Royal jewelries represented the extremity of flamboyance and breath taking craftsmanship - expressions of past glory and endless imagination.  

这种无法复制的经典具有极高的工艺性和艺术性,每一件作品都是独一无二的珠宝艺术。随着世界各地收藏家的涌入,能够在市场流动的古董珠宝日益减少,价格也水涨船高,不少人看中了投资古董珠宝市场的商机。但比起成为资本的砝码,这种经典及永恒或许是更值得被珍藏的价值。 

These non-replicable classics were made with high crafts and artistry, all were one of its kind. Highly sought after by collectors, these antique pieces are becoming extremely.  As a result, prices are sky-rocketing and many investors discovered the opportunities in this area. But beyond its investment value, these magnificent creations have even more value from their eternal classic standpoint.

在如今的市场上,商业珠宝最为普遍,它的制作从起磨开始,全部由机器完成;而高定珠宝则是各大品牌的非陈列商品,作为给VIP客户定制的产品,通常有80%左右的手工工艺。而艺术珠宝则包含了一定的艺术价值,每一副都是纯手工制作,古董珠宝就属于这一类别。

We see mostly commercial jewelry pieces in the current jewelry market that are machine-made. Haute jewelry, belonging to the top tier of major jewelry brands, are tailored-made, with about 80% handmade crafts. Jewels, ones with true eternal value, are all handmade. Antique jewelry falls into this category.  

在过去,它只属于特定阶层;在今天,它则从几个世纪前投来缪斯的微光,启发着当代设计师的灵感。以Cartier、Tiffany为代表的珠宝腕表品牌,都收藏有大量古董珠宝,作为品牌设计师的灵感来源。

Antique jewelry was exclusively reserved for a small audience in the past. Today, these creations have become sources of inspiration from the past for contemporary jewelry designers. Creations from luxury brands such as Cartier and Tiffany have taken inspirations from many antique jewels.

不论是其珍贵的材质、精湛的工艺或者独立的艺术价值,古董珠宝都吸引着世界各地珠宝爱好者和收藏者的目光。更重要的是,古董珠宝作为艺术史的一部分,每件精致收藏背后,也蕴藏着收藏家们对艺术历史的回望和致敬。

Precious jewels, outstanding artisans, and timeless values of antique jewelry appeal to jewelry connoisseurs and collectors from all over the world. More importantly, antique jewelries are parts of history. Each piecere presents the collector’s reflection and tribute to its artistic history.

 

华美之上的收藏趣味

Joy of Collecting Antique Jewelries

如何选择一件称心的古董珠宝腕表,也是古董珠宝腕表带来的雅趣之一。一件值得拥有的古董珠宝腕表,应该具有良好的品相,卓越的工艺,和最具说服力的年代特色,同时,还需要有不输于同时代作品的审美价值。以下两件熙琳古董珠宝的收藏级珠宝,可以作为极佳的示例:

Selecting the right piece of antique jewelry is part of the fun for appreciation of antique jewelry. A good piece of antique jewelry should be outstanding in its appearance, craftsmanship, and the characteristics of that particular time period. At the same time, it must show outstanding aesthetic value. The following pieces are excellent examples:

「  爱德华时期胸针 」

Edwardian Broach 

爱德华时期是很重要的珠宝时期,涌现了大量珍稀珠宝,其中法国皇室的奢华,更是傲视欧洲皇室。采购时,供货商会特别强调某件珠宝是“法国制造”,因为法国制造即意味着精品品质的保证。当时的金含量有限,哪怕英国皇室都有9K的珠宝,而法国皇室则认为只有18K做出来的,才叫珠宝。

The Edwardian Era was an important time for jewelry with an abundance of magnificent jewelry pieces. Among these, luxurious pieces from the French royalty stand out even more. Jewelers would boast “made in France” because French jewelries signified high quality. With limited supply of gold at the time, some of the jewelries from British royalty were made with 9k gold. But for the French, only ones made in 18K gold or above were considered jewelries. 

这枚胸针是爱德华三世时期的作品。因为爱用蕾丝、花束等造型,又保持了宫廷珠宝的华美繁复,所以爱德华时期也被称为花环、花冠时期。爱德华时期两个具有代表性的工艺都在这枚胸针上有所体现。

This broach was a piece during the reign of Edward III. Motifs of lacesand flower bouquets were classic elements of royal jewelries.

一是刀线:正面看去,固定钻石的仿佛只是一条条纤细的银线,但看向侧面,会发现这些线都是有宽度的。这就保证了不仅能最大程度展现钻石的美,更能将它牢牢固定。

The first focus is on the lines. From the front, the mounted diamonds look like set on a serie of lines. But from the side, it is clear that these lines have a certain width. This design ensures the sturdiness of the piece while demonstrating the beauty of the diamonds.

二是滚珠边:滚珠边代表了当时女性化的审美趣味,和蕾丝边类似,都是为了体现繁复精致的工艺。现代这样的工艺都由机器代劳,而这枚胸针上,所有圆珠都是手工切出,细致无比。

The second focus lies in is the cabochon cut and beads. Just like lace, the designs showcases the complexity of the craftsmanship and the femininity in the jewelry. In contrast to the machine-made details of contemporary jewelry, beads on the broach are all hand-cut and very delicate. 

「 宝诗龙项链 」

Boucheron Necklace 

宝诗龙的这套项链是20世纪40年代的作品。那时二战刚结束,欧洲缺乏大颗宝石,但黄金却很充足。这件作品则具备这一时期的典型特征:它以100克重金打造,缀以细碎的宝石。这些宝石虽然细碎,却极尽讲究,每一颗都是顶级原料,并且颜色十分均匀,即使放在当下,这样的宝石也很难收集。

This Boucheron necklace is from the 1940’s right at the end of World War II. Large gemstones were hard to find, but there was enough gold. The piece here is a classic creation from that period. It is made from 100 grams of gold and adorned with very fine gemstones. Although these gemstones are small by comparison, they are premium stones with great color and well cut details. Now, these are considered rare gemstones. 

更具时代意义的是,在当时,普通女性也开始佩戴珠宝,珠宝不再是皇室贵族的专属,所以这套项链看起来并不那么奢华,可以想象职业女性佩戴着它坐在办公室的场景。

More importantly, more and more women during that time started to wear jewelry. Jewelry was no longer exclusively reserved for royalty and aristocrats. Necklaces became less flamboyant and luxurious, and more fitting for a professional women’s daily wear.

 

<<  向左滑动查看更多 >>

卓佳娜给到古董珠宝爱好者的收藏建议是,一定要选择具有显着年代风格的作品,以体现标志性的时代工艺。未来,她或许还会以展览或沙龙的形式,带大家更深入古董珠宝的世界。

For jewelry collectors, Zhuo Jia-na recommends choosing ones with strong characteristics of a particular time period with the appropriate craftsmanship. In the future, she plans to organize more exhibitions and salon events to introduce the world of antique jewelry to the general public.

<<  向左滑动查看更多 >>

古董珠宝带我们发现了时尚与艺术彼此相依的另一个面,更在时间的长河中照见了人们对于美的追求足迹、社会关于珍贵物件的价值变化,并一一封存了历史中手艺发展的心血精华。

Antique jewelry brings us another side of fashion and art. We can see the long journey of our pursuit of beauty, and the change in values the society gives to precious objects. Moreover, these are evidence of the history of development of handmade artistic objects.

自成立以来,侨福芳草地不仅引进全球顶尖艺术家作品,并且秉持收而不藏的精神,在美术馆、画廊、和公共空间免费开放介绍给社会大众近距离亲近艺术,也持续与合作品牌在引进商品中不停突破对美和艺术性、前瞻性的追求。将来还会继续通过与艺术家和设计品牌的合作,将美好的事物分享给每一位顾客。

From the very beginning, Parkview Green FangCaoDi has continuously introduced the works of top artists from the world selflessly. These artworks have been featured in museums, art galleries, and public spaces for the general public, free of admission, so everyone can take a step closer to the art. Parkview Green FangCaoDi also works with brands to explore more artistic and pioneering encounters. In the future, there will be more collaborations with artists and brands to bring more beautiful objects to everyone.愿您的每一次前来,都能得到灵感,激发想象,带回世界的另一个美好侧面。 We hope with each visit, you can find inspiration here and bring a piece of our beauty back into your very own world. 

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